In the second feature in ckbk series, following on from An introduction to Pastry, Cat Black offers an overview of the culinary uses of this vital grain — a “Rice 101”.
By Cat Black
Rice plants growing in one of the countless paddies (known as tanada) in Japan
Rice, in all its great variety, is one of the world’s most widespread staple foods, a core element of meals across many countries and cuisines. Although there are thousands of varieties of rice, and it is cultivated in over a hundred countries, it is particularly important to Asia, and was established in India, China, and all across SE Asia by 2000 BC. Rice has advantages over other staple foods, in that it is relatively dry when harvested, so keeps well and for a longer time than other crops, such as wheat or barley. It is also highly absorbent, which makes it a glorious carrier of flavor, whether those be the umami richness of a stock, the heat and aromatics of spice, or the tangy rice-vinegar glaze used to coat the rice for making sushi.
Different cuisines, from English baked rice puddings, to India biryani, from a fine Italian risotto, to West African Jollof rice or Spanish paella, use different varieties of rice. Texture in the finished dish is key. Longer grain varieties, such as Basmati, tend to a less starchy end result, and are often washed ahead of time to ensure free-flowing and separate grains. Stickier rice dishes, whether sweet or savory, make the most of rice’s glutinous or starchy quality – you want this for your Japanese sticky rice or the ooze of a perfect risotto. To select and buy the best rice for your dish, first consult the recipe. If a particular variety is needed it will say so – for example Arborio or Carnaroli for risotto. Or it may specify more broadly, such as long grain white rice, brown rice, or pudding rice – in which case you don’t need to look for a particular variety, just that type. Supermarkets do now stock many types of rice, so you can buy what you need for your dish. In some cases, you may like to go to a specialist shop or market. For example, a Japanese supermarket will be sure to have the best rice for sushi, when an ordinary supermarket outside of Japan might not.
Wholegrain rice can be brown, red or black, and refers to rice that has been removed from the husk, but not milled or polished. Those varieties take longer to cook, and have a firmer, nutty texture and flavor. Retaining the husk’s nutrients, they are a very nutritious and flavorful alternative to white rice in many dishes. ‘Wild’ rice, which has fine very dark grains, is actually a wild grass, and not a variety of rice. But it is often combined with other varieties of rice, or used in similar types of dishes, so is worth a mention.
Whether you are a paella lover, or a sushi aficionado, we’ve put together a selection of core recipes, and then a series of collections, so you can dig into a range rice dishes in all their delicious diversity.
What to make with rice… Core recipes
This collection is full of the basic recipes you need to start exploring a world of rice cookery. We have assembled a curated shortlist of recipes and techniques to help you approach each different type of rice. Understanding the basic technique of how to make a risotto, or how to cook the rice before attempting to make sushi, is key to a successful result. Some dishes, such as sushi, or arancini, need you to make the rice ahead. In some, like rice pudding, or Jollof rice, the cooking is integral to the finished dish. Either way, cook or read your way around this round up of rice knowledge, and prepare for some very delicious rice dishes.
